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Angkor Temples
Marvelous cultural patrimony At about 314 km North of Phnom Penh, the
town of Siem Reap, the provincial capital, is a pleasant sleepy
backwater serving as a base for visits to the ancient capital of Angkor.
With the recent completion of international standard hotels including
the renovation of the famous Grand Hotel D'Angkor, the more than one
hundred ancient temples and monuments in the vicinity can be enjoyed in
style and comfort.
Well organised guided tours ensure visitors make the most of their
holidays regardless of length of stay. Though not essential, a well
informed professional guide will enhance any tour, providing insight and
history often not available in guide books. Many of the temples are best
viewed at different times of the day due to their geographical
orientation and the angle of the sun.
Angkor was the biggest city in
South-East Asia during the IX-Xll centuries, comprising numerous
monuments out of comparison. The Angkor temples were built in fine Khmer
architecture, naturalistic, complicated and full of symbolism. Hidden in
the forest, they are embalmed by the perfume of the Kravan and Rumduol
flowers and made lively by the lugubrious song of cicadas. The time
spent to see the temples is unlimited.
In order to truly understand the real Cambodia, one must visit one of
the great archeological sites in the world; the spiritual heart and
identity of the Khmer people: the Angkor complex. Had any of the main
temples, especially Angkor Wat been built anywhere else they would be as
famous or as visited Taj Mahal, the Parthenon, the Coliseum, or the
Pyramids of Egypt. Angkor is without doubt one of the most breathtaking
architectural masterpieces left standing in the world today. Without
witnessing them them at first hand it is impossible to gauge the
enormity of task faced by the builders of the time and the fact they are
so complete after all this time is further testament to the advanced
construction techniques employed more than one millennium ago.
Everything is built on a massive scale and one can only imagine the awe
felt by ancient visitors as the civilisation was at its peak. It is
estimated that over one million people lived ther making it the largest
metropolis in its time. Witness the two hand dug reservoirs that served
the civilisation's rice growing agriculture: The Eastern Baray measures
7 km by 1,8 km and the Western Baray a staggering 8 km by 2,3 km.
Built in the beginning of the XII century by King Soryavarman II, Angkor
Wat is the cultural home of the Khmer people, in various guises has
appeared and is still on the national flag. Had it been located in the
Mediterranean basin it would have been one of the eight wonders of the
world.
The Lost City of Angkor was to remain undiscovered by Western
archaeologists until the lat 19th century and ever since has continued
to amaze all who see it for the first time: neither words nor pictures
do it justice. Angkor Wat is a
legacy of the might that was once the Khmer Empire, a detailed history
of which has been carved into the many walls of this fortified temple.
The temple is accessible by a giant stone causeway across the hundred
ninety metre moat, itself an incredible feat of engineering, to the west
face of the Wat.
Angkor Thom was built by Cambodia's
greatest builder, Jayavarman VII. This ten square kilometre city is
enclosed by an eight metre high wall and encircled by a hundred metre
moat said to have been inhabited by fierce crocodiles. There are five
twenty metre high gates in the wall in each of the North, West, and
South walls and two in the East wall. Access is via causeways over the
moat that are flanked by the statues of fifty four Gods on the left and
-fifty four devils on the right, all seemingly engaged in a game of tug
of war.
Erected by Jayavarman VII at the end of XII century,
The Bayon is located in the
geographical heart of Angkor Thom. The fifty four tower temple is a
quite remarkable sight. Initially the temple seems to be a shapeless
mass of grey and brown stone but as one approaches one realises that
each of the towers is in fact carved and there are over two hundred huge
enigmatic faces of Avalokitesharva bearing down on you wherever you
turn. The Bayon is easily the most popular sight after Angkor Wat and no
visit is complete without a trip to see this amazing and unique temple.
Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th
century by Jayavarman VII as a shrine to his mother and is another must
for anyone coming to Siem Reap. As a monastery there were nearly three
thousand priests here including eighteen high priests. Ta Prohm is
unforgettable due to the massive trees that were left here intentionally
by the archeologists working on the site. While clearing back the
forest, it was decided to leave them in place to serve as a reminder of
how the original discovers found it and other temples. Many of the trees
have grown around and through the remains, and soar high above the
temple. This temple, along with those of the Bayon and Angkor form the
core of any visit to Siem Reap.
Phnom Bakheng served as the temple
mountain of the first city of Angkor as opposed to the previous centre
of Rolous. The capital built on a lone hill offers panoramic views of
Angkor Wat, Angkor
Thorn and the surrounding areas. It is best visited in the late
afternoon for a spectacular rise over Angkor Wat.
Banteay Srei. About 30 km North of
Siem Reap, it was built in the second half of the Xth century, dedicated
to Shiva. While some of the temples are impressive because of their
sheer size, Banteay Srei stands alone in the quality of its construction
and decoration. Its pink sandstone wall are decorated with what some
consider to be the best carving of all and in an amazing state of
preservation. Built in 967 and dedicated to Brahma it is located twenty
five kilometres North of Angkor Wat.
The Small Circuit takes in several of the major and minor temples in the
area. Beginning at Angkor Wat and running for seventeen kilomtres the
circuit takes in the major elements of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Banteay
Kdei, and some of the minor interesting temples such as The Baphoun, The
Terrace of the Elephants, the twelve Prasats, Spean Thma, and Sras Srang
before returning to Angkor Wat.
The twenty-six kilometer Big Circuit is an extension on the little
circuit but taking in Preah Neak Pean to the Eastern Mebon and ather
various monuments like Ta Som, Preah Rup, before returning to Angkor Wat
and is highly recommended to anyone spending three days or more in the
complex. The Big Circuit encompasses a good representation of the rich
variety of architecture here.
Phnom Kulen is widely regarded as
the birthplace of the ancient Khmer empire and is some forty eight
kilometres from Siem Reap. This hilltop site has the country's largest
reclining Buddha and it was here that the King, Jayavarman II proclaimed
independence from Java. It has only just returned to government hands
after the fall of the Khmer Rouge and is currently fairly inaccessible
due to the poor state of the roads especially in the rainy season.
Cutting through the area is the River of 1000 Lingas. Just five
centimetres under the water's surface over 1000 small carvings are
etched into the sandstone riverbed while further downstream larger
blocks of stone are carved with Apsaras, Vishnu, and other figures. All
the sandstone used in the construction of Angkor was quarried here.
The Roulos Group was the capital of
lndravarman I (877 to 889). These were the first temples built to last
and are made of brick with some carved plaster reliefs. The group is
made up of the three temples of Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei. Many of the
later temples in the Angkor group are based on these earlier temples
though rather than brick. ^top^
Phnom Penh
An admirable small historic city Phnom Penh, capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia
founded since 1434, is a small city of around 1 million inhabitants, and also
administrative and commercial center of the country. It is a vibrant bustling
city nestling majestically on the banks of the confluence of the two mighty
rivers of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap.
These rivers then split again as the Mekong and the Tonle Bassac at a place
known to the Khmers as Chaktomuk, meaning four faces. Phnorn Penh is a veritable
oasis compared to the modernity of other Asian capitals. With wide tree-lined
boulevards and low-rise buildings Phnom Penh still harks back to the colonial
days of this former French playground and the many older French colonial
buildings, much in evidence, add to the ambiance. The area surrounding the Royal
Palace has magnificent Khmer towers and remains particularly delightful. There
are many open spaces and parks in the centre which the locals use for recreation
and relaxation. Pedalled rickshaws, called cyclos, still ply the streets as in
colonial days and provide an excellent opportunity for sightseeing and people
watching as well as the taxi service.
Wat Phnom (Hill Temple) Located on a
man-made hill twenty seven metres high in the middle of Phnom Penh, Wat Phnom is
a revered place of worship for all Khmers and is the namesake of the capital.
The original pagoda was built in 1373 to house four Buddha statues said to have
been deposited by the waters of the Mekong. Behind the pagoda, there is a big
stupa where is put the ashes of King Ponhea Yat, the first founder of the
capital Phnom Penh. The temple is the focal point for many Buddhist ceremonies
especially Pchum Ben and his highly revered by Phnom Penh residents. Wat Phnom
has a unique atmosphere and is surrounded by various fortune tellers, mystics,
faith healers, and elephant rides around the site are available. Entrance costs
US$1
The Royal Palace is situed just opposite the
Four Branches of the Mekong river; it was originally built in 1866, and
reconstructed later in 1913, with numerous buildings of remarkable khmer
architecture.
Unfortunately the royal residence, set back from the riverfront, is closed to
visitors but is still visible from the outside and well worth seeing, located as
it is between the Silver Pagoda and National Museum.
The National Museum, a great red and elegant
building North of the Royal Palace, constructed in 1917, is the treasure of
khmer archeology arts. Designed by George Groslier and the Ecole des Arts
Cambodgiens, it was built in 1917 in traditional Khmer style and inaugurated by
King Sisowat. The National Museum houses the world's foremost collection of
ancient Khmer archeological, religious, and artistic artifacts from the 4th to
the 13th centuries. There are over 5000 pieces and is the repository of the
Kingdom's cultural wealth. In addition, the roof space is home to the largest
bat colony in the world living in an artificial structure. Every evening these
bats flock out of the roof and swarm around in the sky before searching for
food. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance fee US$2 per
person. Photography is forbidden inside.
The Silver Pagoda, or the temple of the
emerald Buddha, formerly a wooden building, was rebuilt in 1962 in concrete and
marble. The pagoda is floored with over 5,329 silver tiles each weighing 1 kilo.
It is famous for its 90kg solid gold Buddha made in 1907 and an emerald Buddha
said to be made of baccarat crystal. Sharing the pagoda are many other
interesting artifacts and jewels and was one of the few temples to remain intact
during the Khrner Rouge regime. Open daily from 8am to ll am and 2:30 pm to 5
pm. Entrance fee US$3 per person. Camera fee US$2. Video fee US$5. Photography
is allowed in the outside exhibition areas only. Please remember that exposed
knees and shoulders are considered disrespectful.
Toul Sleng Museum, Formally Toul Svay Prey
School, Known as the Museum of Genocidal Crimes it was used by the Khmer Rouge
as a detention and torture centre in the late 1970s. Today the building houses
exhibits paintings and photographs of many of the victims. Visitors can see the
crude cells built in the classrooms and the torture devices used to extract
"confessions" in Stalinesque purges of the regime. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am
and 2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance fee US$2 per person. ^top^
Phnom Penh Surroundings
The Killing Fields - Boeung Choeung Ek
Situated 15 kilometres south-west of Phnom Penh and made famous by the film of
the same name it was a place where more than 17,000 civilians were killed and
burried in massive graves; many of them transported here after detention and
torture in Toul Sleng.
This place is a chilling reminder of the brutalities of the genocidal Khmer
Rouge regime. In the centre of the area is a 17 story glass stupa which houses
8000 skulls exhumed from mass graves. Open daily. Entrance fee US$1 per person.
Please note that both the Toul Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields exhibits may
be disturbing for some and aren't suitable for younger children and adults who
are easily shocked.
Independence Monument
Built in 1958 as a memorial to Cambodia's war dead after the gaining of
independence from France in 1953, the monument, built in the Angkorian style,
consists of five levels decorated with 100 snake heads. It is at its most
impressive later in the afternoon with shadows highlighting the complexity of
the design and giving the structure a warm orange glow.
The Tonle Sap Riverfront
The recently refurbished riverfront park is the focal point for the Phnom Penh
residents' leisure activities. Early risers can see the many locals welcoming
the new day with Tai Chi and other exercises while the sun rises majestically
over the river. In the early evening and all day Sunday many people stroll,
picnic or just sit and watch the world go by. Local delicacies are served by
vendors all along the riverfront and visitors can indulge in dried salted fish
or another favourite, boiled duck embryos still in the shell.
National Library
The National Library is located next to the Royal Hotel and just West of Wat
Phnom. This graceful building, another example of French colonial architecture,
built in 1924 and set in floral gardens was sacked by the Khmer Rouge and turned
into a stable. Many of the discarded books were picked up by the locals who
donated them back to the library after 1979. Open daily from 8 am to 11 am and
2:30 pm to 5 pm. Entrance free.
The Markets
Of the more than a dozen markets in Phnom Penh many of them are of little
interest to visitors, selling, as they do, general household purchases in many
of the districts of the city. There are, however, several centrally located
markets of real interest to shoppers, browsers and souvenir hunters alike. Be
warned that nothing is priced and bargaining is a must, but unlike some
neighbouring countries, haggling here is good natured and fun.
The Central Market (New Market) is one of
the largest and busiest markets in Phnorn Penh. Built in 1937 by French
architects and surprisingly cool, even in the heat of the hottest day, many
interesting products are available. The eastern side, which is the main
entrance, has many souvenirs and ornaments on sale from T-shirts to large stone
heads. In the centre are the many jewellery stores and precious stone vendors as
well as a plethora of electronic goods merchants, cloth sellers and other
dealers; most of them selling things considerably cheaper than back home.
The Toul Tom Pong Market (The Russian Market)
is probably the city's best source of objects d'art. Items for sale include
wooden and stone carvings, various ritual objects, silverware, and old
lndochinese notes and coins. There is a large range of antiquities and curios
for those prepared to ferret around the various stalls and there are also gold
and silversmiths inside the market who can be seen custom making jewellery. This
too is a good source of both Cambodian and Chinese silk and clothes. This is one
of the most popular markets in Phnom Penh with foreign residents and tourists
who can spend many an interesting hour browsing before choosing that perfect
gift.
The O'Russei Market on the North side of the
Olympic Stadium is a typical Cambodian market catering to the everyday needs of
the populace. Here the sights and smells of this market give the visitor the
feel of a local market with many house- wives still purchasing their foodstuffs
on a daily basis. This market is full of local character and one can only
imagine the banter that takes place between all the vendors and customers. Here,
is one of the best selections of the different types of fruit from all over the
region, though the choice, naturally, depends on the season.
The Olympic Market is probably one of the cheapest markets in town with lots of
wholesaling going on here. It was renovated and reopened in 1994 as a three
story modern building with reportedly Cambodia's only escalators.
Mekong Island
A full day trip to Mekong Island is an excellent way to sample the daily lives
and traditions of rural life in Cambodia. This ten-hectare island has been
planned as an authentic showcase of the cultural, zoological, and agricultural
diversity and richness of Cambodia.
The price includes transport, excellent lunch and a captivating show of
traditional Cambodian dance. There are also elephant rides available on very
friendly Asian elephants.
Kien Svay
Eighteen kilometres away from Phnom Penh, Kien Svay is the definitive Cambodian
leisure resort. Every weekend many Phnom Penh residents get away from it all and
relax by the water. Here they rent "Water Houses", covered platforms built on
stilts sunk into the river, and picnic on the water. They are accessible by boat
and the platform owners take you there and back. There are also relaxing boat
cruises that take you around the resort area.
Mo Ha Liep Resort Centre (The children's park)
This recreation area is out of Phnom Penh on the route to Kien Svay. This is a
large park where 70 kinds of fruit trees have been planted with all of them
being labelled in English and Khmer. There is a large swimming pool and Khmer
food is served daily.
Udong
An ancient capital from the latter stages of the Khmer Empire and crowing site
of the kings is located atop two parallel ridges 40 Km North of Phnom Penh.
Udong offers spectacular views of the surrounding country and the innumerable
sugar palm trees that punctuate the countryside.
King Ang Dung, the great grandfather of the present king, King Sihanouk, was
crowned here and many locals and foreign residents alike picnic here on
weekends.
Phnom Chisor
This ancient Khmer temple stands on an 80 by 100 metre square plateau and faces
East. Constructed in the 11th century of laterite and brick with carved
sandstone lintels, the complex is surrounded by the partially ruined walls of a
two and a half metre wide gallery with inward facing windows. As with the other
hilltop temples there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and
Phnom Chisor makes an ideal excursion combined with Tonle Bati / Ta Prohm
Temple.
Tonle Bati / Ta Prohm Temple
Not far South of Phnom Penh on the route to Phnom Chisor is a 12th century
temple, Ta Prohm, built by Jayavaraman VII (1181-1201). Consecrated to the
Buddha and the Brahma, the temple is noted for its refined bas reliefs.
Nearby is a smaller temple, Yeay Peau, which also has remarkable stone carvings.
Near Ta Prohrn is a small lake, Tonle Bati, which is similar to Kien Svay as a
leisure resort though on a smaller scale. Again there are "Water Houses" for
rent and various food stalls. ^top^
South Coast
Kampot
The pretty riverine town of Kampot is just five kilometres from the sea and
serves the very popular seaside resort of Kep. Once a fashionable haunt of the
French elite it was known as La Perle de la Cote d'Agathe and has stunning
offshore islands and a beautiful bay.
King Sihanouk owned one of these islands and would often use it for
entertaining. This region is famous for its production of durian, the foul
smelling fruit, and reputedly has the best seafood in the country.
Sihanoukville (Kompong Som), Cambodia's only
maritime port is 232 kilometres from Phnom Penh and accessible via one of the
best inter-provincial roads in the country. Kompong Som is not only a seaport
but an area famous for its picture-postcard tropical beaches. Situated as it is
on a headland, visitors can choose from a range of beaches, several of which can
often remain completely deserted. The most popular are Ochatial beach and Sokha
Beach due their immediacy to the town.
Local fishermen will take visitors to any one of the nearby islands where the
coral, teeming with tropical fish, is perfect for snorkeling, diving, and
fishing. There are many restaurants catering to various national tastes but its
well worth trying the freshly caught crab, shrimps, and other seafood the region
has to offer.
The resort was established in 1964 and can be visited all year round to
appreciate the warm sands, cool breezes and clear blue skies.
Bokor Hill Station
In keeping with the colonial practices of the time, many of the French elite,
unwilling to become accustomed to the heat of the Cambodian summer, retreated to
the Bokor Hill station set in the Elephant Mountains.
At an elevation of just over 1000m it is famous for its pleasant climate, clear
streams and tranquil surroundings. Visitors will be taken in by the stunning
panoramas, forested vistas and breathtaking views of the sea. The best time to
visit is between November and May. ^top^
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